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There's a universal skin care truth: SPF should be worn by everyone, every day, everywhere (and yes, that includes at home). However, SPF has a bad reputation when it comes to formulations. It can be too thick, too greasy, and can leave an unpleasant white film on the surface of the skin. So it's no wonder so many people admit that instead of wearing a separate SPF, they're just relying on what's already built into their daily moisturizer, foundation, or BB cream to protect their skin. But is it enough?

Sunscreen is meant to sit on the surface of your skin to act as a shield between your face and the sun. It doesn't penetrate the skin, as it has to block all those harmful UV rays. When it comes to moisturizers, on the other hand, the method of action is the complete opposite. Their goal is to penetrate the skin, adding moisture that wasn't already there. How can a product that mixes the two work well on both fronts (i.e. protecting your skin from the sun and hydrating it at the same time?). And with that in mind, how come there are thousands of SPF moisturizers on the market?

What do dermatologists say?

• Sunscreen is not an ingredient : It should be treated as a very important layer in your skincare routine that should always be applied last (but before makeup). The purpose of sunscreen is to form a film on top of your skin to protect it – SPF is not there to restore hydration or deliver ingredients deeper into the skin. Sunscreen is regulated by the FDA as a drug, and these regulations require a specific amount of SPF for it to be effective, leaving little room for other active ingredients in a formula. Most importantly, when exposed to air and light, sunscreen becomes ineffective after a short period of time (about 90 minutes max.) You need to reapply it if your skin is exposed to the sun. It’s not just an ingredient that needs to be added to a moisturizer – it’s a separate layer, and the consumer needs to be better educated about this.

And studies agree: the SPF of any product is based on the use of 2 milligrams per square centimeter on the skin , which represents about half a teaspoon for the entire face . In a recent study, the University of Liverpool used UV photography to assess how well sunscreen was applied. Volunteers were studied on two separate occasions – once after applying SPF30 moisturizer, once after applying SPF30 sunscreen. Theoretically, these two products should provide the same protection. However, the images were much darker with sunscreen than with SPF moisturizer – suggesting that in real-world scenarios, people don’t apply enough moisturizer to get the full effect. Additionally, the SPF moisturizer wasn’t applied as evenly, especially around the eyelids. In this case, the participants missed 16% of their face and 21% of their eyelid region , compared to just 11% of their face and 14% of their eyelid region for sunscreen. Since eyelid skin is particularly prone to skin cancer, this finding should give us pause for thought. The data shows that areas of the face that are more vulnerable to skin cancer are also more likely to be missed when applying SPF moisturizers than sunscreens, and more importantly, that people who apply these products are unaware that they are not covering the areas at increased risk.

• While all experts recommend using both a moisturizer and a separate sunscreen, the reasoning comes from more than just the products' ability to penetrate the skin. Instead, it's about the ability to fully benefit from the SPF number , first because we don't apply enough product, and second because mixing it with other ingredients dilutes the formula. Furthermore, technically, you should be applying sunscreen continuously throughout the day (which you may not want to do with moisturizer, depending on your skin type or the price of the product). The best way to apply is to put on moisturizer first, then apply an SPF 30 or higher every morning at least 15 minutes before sun exposure. This way, you'll get the most out of your sun protection.

• As long as a product is labeled with SPF 30 or higher and broad-spectrum coverage is safe. Let's break it down a bit more: SPF, which stands for "sun protection factor," refers to the amount of time you have before those UVB rays start to do some damage — like sunburn, redness, and skin cancer. As for the number, the minimum recommended by dermatologists is 30. SPF 30 blocks 97 percent of the sun's UVB rays, and SPF 50 blocks about 98 percent of the rays. So, it's perfect if you can use at least an SPF 30. The term "broad-spectrum" means that the sunscreen also covers UVA rays — which are to blame for premature aging, wrinkles, and skin cancer.

• Makeup with SPF It should be considered a second line of defense against UV rays after you've already applied sunscreen, not a stand-alone protection. Two forms of sunscreen are much better than one. There aren't a lot of great options here, but there are a few high-SPF pressed powders available, and these can be a good option for people who spend most of the day indoors but still want to be protected (since the sun's rays still reach us through windows).

While it's every dermatologist's wish that we all apply the best sunscreen products every day without fail, most are also aware of the fallibility of humanity. Even if you don't follow all the steps "to the letter," the best sunscreen is the one you still put on your face.